Road Trip

Well life is changing rapidly for us, to say the least. We are in chilly Islesboro, Maine. There are a few more cruising related articles I wanted to write before closing this chapter (stay tuned). But right now, I want to just say that road tripping with an active toddler is grueling.

We left Wildie on the hard last week in Florida. Our little family stood in front of her, held hands and sang a song for her before leaving (we love you Wildie, oh yes we do; we love you Wildie, and we’ll be true…) Then we jumped into our jam-packed minivan and started working our way up the coast. It was already close to the kids’ bedtime. We figured it would be similar to an overnight passage, putting miles under while the kids were asleep. Not so much. O kept waking up and getting upset. There were many potty breaks. We couldn’t exactly set the autopilot and an egg timer and take a nap. So hats off to road-tripping families. We don’t know how you do it.

New Bern
New Bern, NC was our first stop to see our old cruising friends from Tommy Dundee. V and O loved reuniting with their fairy godsisters again. Tim, Sara and the girls spoiled us rotten with food, rest, naps, babysitting, and…

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…a special visit to a private stable with three horses. Katie gave us the best gift to ease V’s mind from leaving Wildie. She introduced V to the three horses (who live in the freshest smelling stable I’ve ever experienced). And the icing on the cake was a lesson on grooming horses.

Grooming Remy
Katie taught V how to walk around a horse properly; how to let a horse know where you are at all times; and how to groom the coat, mane, and hoofs. She also gave us a pile of age appropriate horse books to feed V’s interest. I’ve mentioned before that neither Tig nor I are horse people. But we love our little girl and want to support her interests and passions to the best of our abilities. I wished we could have stayed longer, but we sadly had to say goodbye and get back on the road.

Next stop: Annapolis, to see our dear friends Cindy and Doug. We visited them last September on the way down to Florida and had lots of fun. We arrived in the late afternoon frazzled and exhausted. Cindy wisely convinced us to take a one-day break. I was so glad we listened. On our day off we went along on a photo shoot during Zach’s riding lesson. She took these amazing photos.

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photos: cindy wallach (psst, hire her)

We even wrangled a mom’s night out. Tig and I also got a chance to catch up with Greg and Tracy from sv Heron. They are about to set off on their own cruising adventure this summer in a different boat, sv Hurrah. Fair winds and calm seas!

After another sad goodbye, we drove the rest of the way up to New York, unpacked and returned the minivan, borrowed another car, repacked, and headed up to Maine. And that’s where we are now.

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Last Day in the Bahamas

It’s still hard to believe that we left the clear blue waters of the Bahamas 2 weeks ago. Here are some pictures of our last 24 hours there.

20130509-232241.jpgOne last beach for the kids at Great Sale Cay. Not much sand, but warm, shallow, flat water is what O likes. Plus little critters to catch & play with.

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From Great Sale Cay, we had a 55 mile sail along the Little Bahama Bank and then another 55 miles in deep water across the Gulf Stream to Florida.

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A little bird took a break on our boat. The nearest land at this point was probably 20 miles away.

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I’ve read stories about how tame birds are when they land on your boat. So I let the kiddos try to feed him. No luck. They just ended up chasing the bird around the boat until 10 minutes later, the bird flew off.

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A lone dolphin visited us. It’s always amazing every time we see them in clear water. We see a lot more dolphins in Florida, but there you only get to see the fins & any other parts that come out of the water. In the Bahamas, you can see them swim along your boat.

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And of course, fishing. It’s taken me a few months to get fairly competent at fishing, both from the boat & spear fishing. Here I’m just watching my 2 lines that I’m trolling from the stern of our boat. I usually don’t like to fish in the shallow banks, but I know there’s not much time for fishing left.

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Mostly what I catch on the banks is barracuda. But here’s a big mutton snapper that I caught (I actually caught 3 of these over the last 3 days in the Bahamas). Although I hear they are good eating, I threw him back because they are listed as a vulnerable species and he is too large for our tastes (won’t risk ciguatera with the kids).

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Right before sunset, I caught this skipjack tuna. I also caught a king mackerel and a mahi mahi to round out the last of my fishing. The fridge was well stocked for the next week.

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Sun setting as we leave the Bahamas and enter the Gulf Stream.

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Saying goodbye

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So much has happened since we last posted. Decisions to be made, miles to slog through, boxes to pack, a boat to decommission. We still haven’t processed it yet. And quite frankly, we’re exhausted. Unlike our blow-by-blow account of buying a boat and moving aboard, this time I’d like a bit more perspective before writing about it. So more to come someday. In the meantime, we’re driving up the coast and visiting friends before we settle down for the summer.

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Projects

I wrote about our kids’ project work a while back, and thought friends and family might be interested in an update. We are continue to go with the flow of our daily lives in exploration and in new experiences. Then we fit in their projects where we can. Not all of their projects are self initiated, but we’re laying the groundwork and moving in that direction. Lori’s Quick Start Guide to PBH is a great read.

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Easter eggs decorated a few weeks ago. Not exactly self-initiated project, but fun nevertheless. We gave the kids a carton of boiled eggs and let them have at it with markers, glue and some googly eyes. A year ago, my perfectionist self would have wanted manage and take over, but I think their results are much cuter.

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Collaborative project with V. A year ago, I was pretty frustrated that V wanted me to draw everything for her. Over time, I realized that she needed a bit of scaffolding. We try to do a few collaborative projects, like this drawing of Wildie.

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Lego building has taken a great leap forward. She’s building more structures and mixing media with peg people and accessories.

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Drawing. Drawing. And more drawing. She’s developing her own visual vocabulary and style.

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Little man cleaning his conch.

And then there’s daily living. When Tig changes the engine oil, there are two little bodies in the companionway watching, looking at the color of oil, and asking questions. When I’m gutting a fish, there’s always the peanut gallery right behind me. They get underfoot, make messes, get distracted and fight. It’s always interesting around here.

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sad

We heard about the terrible news last night. Someone on the VHF called out to people from Boston, “Call home.” A quick check on-line confirmed the worst. We are saddened by the news from our hometown and send prayers out for those affected.

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Bonfire on Tahiti Beach

We had the pleasure of traveling with Bay Tripper, Robin, and Full Moon for a few days. What a wonderful way to end it…with a bonfire.
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Tall Josh and Mike built the fire.

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A treehouse on the beach.

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Roasting hotdogs.

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Two seconds of sibling togetherness.

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Bay Tripper crew. Props to anyone who cruises with a baby and toddler!

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Roasting marshmallows.

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Shea gives O his first taste of marshmallow.

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Gathering

While Tig has been busy hunting, we’ve been gathering. Seaweed, you say? Wild edible roots, fruits, and shoots? Nope. Sea Beans.
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We learned about them rather late in our trip. I saw a little girl with a hamburger bean anklet in Georgetown and was hooked. For the next couple of weeks, I feverishly combed the beaches, rummaging through seaweed to find our little collection of sea beans.

In the above picture we have a gray sea pearl, three hamburger beans, two plain looking ones and a heart bean in the middle. You can even hand polish them to shiny perfection, but I’ll save that for another day.

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A necklace I made.

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Sea beans aside, my girl has amassed an impressive collection herself of assorted shells, stones, and sharks teeth.

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Hunting

I know of cruisers who spear lobsters and eat them practically every night. They’re so good at it we call them “slayers”. I went out with a couple and shared in their lobster feast, but until recently I haven’t caught any myself.

I’ve learned quite a bit of fishing the last few months, both with a line and with a pole spear. Spear fishing in the Bahamas is done while free diving (fishing using compressed air is illegal) and using some kind of pole spear or sling (spear guns are illegal too). The first time I went spear fishing with experienced divers, we were free diving in depths from 15-25 feet. I only ended up “catching” a bloody nose. Needless to say, I had to practice and work my way up (or more accurately, down) to those depths. Since Serena won’t allow me to dive without partners–understandably– I had few opportunities to improve my game…until recently.

With Josh from sv Full Moon, we had a few good fishing opportunities outside of Hatchet Bay. The first time we went out, the seas were quite rough and it was hard to explore the rocky cliffs. I ended up spearing only a lion fish, and I missed twice at lobster. The next time out in calm conditions, we caught lobster, lion fish, and crabs–we each caught one apiece. And the following day, I speared my first non-lion-fish fish, a Nassau grouper. Alas, lobster season has come to an end, so it’s only fishing now.

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My first lobster.

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The catch.

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The kids played around the edges, weaving in and out of the action.

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Playing with crabs.

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The kiddos saw firsthand what was in the lion fish’s mouth…

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They don’t need to read about the food chain in books, they can see it for themselves.

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Our dinner with Full Moon. Serena made a Brazilian fish stew with the lion fish and the rest was grilled and served with butter.

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Reunion (together again)

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We are nearing the end of our trip. We have a few more weeks to explore the Abacos, then we head back to the U.S. Back to a life on land. We don’t know where life will pick up again for us.

Imagine how happy we were to see many of our friends again as we pulled into Marsh Harbor. We met Baytripper, a family from Boston who we’ve heard about for months, then Robin and Amicus II pulled in. Full Moon was in the same anchorage. We had a big potluck, and life was good again. It reminded me of our raft-up last year. So fun and so bittersweet.

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To Hatchet Bay

A couple of pictures from our passage to Hatchet Bay. After our really tough sail to Blackpoint, we were happy to have a simple motoring day on the glassy Bahamas Bank.
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The kids and I got to sit on the bow and watch.

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We spotted a pod of dolphins not too far away. As soon as they got wind of us, they headed over and surfed next to us for a few glorious minutes. It never gets old. Each time, it is such an amazing rush.

We settled in Hatchet Bay and met up with Mambo again. We also made a new friend, Full Moon. Before long, we were heading up to the Abacos with two buddy boats.
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Waldorfy neck pouch

It’s been a while since I posted a crafty post. (I’ve been in a bit of a mama funk lately. Luckily, I had some wonderful women and wise mamas who helped me to reset. I can finally see a light at the end of the tunnel.) Here’s something quick I made recently.

Lil man ‘O has always coveted his sister’s neck pouch. It was a gift from our friend Lauren. So one day, I dipped into our breathtakingly expensive wool felt stash and had him pick out his color.

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O chose a brown felt. For the design, he specified a yellow felt flower, just like his sister, with a green stem. I cut a long rectangle, sewed the sides up and added a fabric ribbon. He loves to stuff baby coconuts and seashells in it.

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Just like his sister.

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Fish on!

It’s been a productive few weeks on the fishing front.

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We caught a great barracuda going from Blackpoint to Emerald Bay, Exumas. We decided not to risk getting ciguatera (fish poisoning from reef fish) so we let it go. Unfortunately, Serena drugged it with a little bit of rum on the gills before we ID’d it. Sorry dude.

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Right after that, we scored three king mackerel. We shared a great sushi dinner with sv Night Music at Emerald Bay. We hadn’t seen them for a long time, so the reunion was a happy one. After that, it was mackerel ceviche and breaded and fried mackerel…

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We caught this mahi-mahi on one of our worst passages from Georgetown to Blackpoint. We had gone through worse conditions before, but for some reason the crew just wasn’t doing well that day. The kids puked, and Serena did, too (the very first time). She joked that she was so nauseous that when she saw the mahi-mahi hooked she debated whether to tell me. Here are her words:

Wow, that’s a big one.
oh, that’s kinda…big
It’s green. It’s a mahi-mahi!
oh, it’s…green
It’s gonna be so good.
Oh boy, it’s going to be a bloody mess

That mahi-mahi was the best tasting fish. Ever. It fed us and a buddy boat for three days.

And there was also that time in Georgetown when Serena said, “I’d really like to try wahoo and see what it tastes like.”

Within an hour, a knock on our boat. “We heard you had kids. We caught a wahoo and have some extra fillets.” Thank you sv Viento, wherever you are. They were yummy.

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Our trolling rig is a simple hand reel with 100lb line attached to some bungee/shock cord (for some give on the initial strike) and a couple pieces of rope. One piece of rope doubles where the bungee cord is (in case it breaks), and the other is attached to the boat (tied to a cleat). A cedar plug has been our most successful lure. This has been an easy set up & deployment. I’m certainly no expert on fishing, but when you make it easier to fish, you fish more and get more opportunities to catch fish.

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Warderick Wells

Catching up on some pictures and posts. We had a good time at Warderick Wells Land and Sea Park.
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Sorry grandparents, kids were swallowed by a whale.

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Hike up Booboo Hill.

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Tig tests the physics of a blowhole.

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Top of Booboo Hill.

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G-town

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G-town. I’ve heard it described as “adult summer camp” for cruise and “a circus”. It certainly was overwhelming for us to get a lay of the land, to navigate the myriad of activities and communications.

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We came on a mission to find V’s conch, a special one that George hid on Stocking Island. I drew up a map with his instructions and we set off with sv Robin to find it. The mission was a success and now the pretty conch (with nary a hole in it thanks to George’s freezer trick) sits in V’s cabin.

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(O finds a swing that’s just right for him.)

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It was nice to meet other families with children. We loved how the grocery store and free water were right off the dinghy dock. But after a week, we were happy to move on.

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We enjoy the simple pleasures in life. Collecting seashells, playing on the beach, hanging out with just one or two other boats at a time. We’re heading north now, hoping to get up to the Abacos before returning to the U.S.

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Free range kids, Bahamian style

They’re impish, full of energy and curious. In short, they’re children.

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They roam the streets in gaggles like kindy bike gangs after school and on weekends.

No one is watching them. Except that everyone is.

They have a very loose understanding of property. (“Give me your helmet,” a girl said to V.)

They aren’t bashful about recruiting any nearby adult for help. (“Give me a push,” a girl instructed Serena while getting herself comfortable on V’s bike. “I like it fast.”)

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The boys pop wheelies like second nature.

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Those who don’t go to school yet hang out during the day. They don’t mind teaching V their nursery rhymes, including “Cry baby wash your face” (which leads to “teacher calls you dummy fool”) and “Boys go to boys’ school. Girls go to girls’ school. Boys’ school is ugly. Girls’ school is pretty.”

No one can tell me for sure if they can swim, as they teeter by the water’s edge.

Ah, childhood.

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Wading with nurse sharks

In Staniel Cay we were wading in the beach with nurse sharks. Having been to the Bimini Shark Lab, we knew that they were pretty harmless if left alone. Here’s a 25 second video of them swimming near us. I love the little man’s voice asking, “Are they wild?”

Nurse Sharks from Serena on Vimeo.

 

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Don’t be that guy in Titusville

Wildie bobbed in the water, stern to the wind. The mooring ball bumped around underneath us. I sighed and picked up the phone. The only words I managed to text Serena were, “A little pickle.” Then I called Towboat U.S.

It was was November. I was single handing (solo sailing) for the day while Serena and the kids were with my parents. Sunshine with a north wind blowing about 20 knots and a moderate chop on the ICW. I made great time motorsailing, arriving at Titusville Municipal Marina an hour early.

After locating our mooring ball, I took a first pass. I turned upwind to pick up the pendant (the line attached to the mooring ball that ties off to our boat). I put the engine in neutral, grabbed the boat hook, and ran up to the bow but the pendant was just out of reach. By the time I went back to the cockpit to give the engine some more juice the wind had already started to turn the boat.

Second pass. This time I grabbed the pendant, but found a big plastic eye at the end of the line. Puzzled, I tried putting it on one of my cleats, before realizing that 1) it wouldn’t hold our boat and 2) the wind was turning the boat again. I let go of the pendant, headed back into the cockpit to try again.

On the third approach I realized that the plastic eye was for threading our line through and attaching that to the cleats, forming a bridle. I kept the engine in gear a little longer past the mooring ball, so that I would have a little extra time to grab my own line in the forward anchor locker. The mooring ball was about midship. I grabbed the pendant line and my anchor snubber line with pre-tied loops to go around my cleats. The knot in my line prevented it from threading through the eye. Ugh.

The wind blew the boat back, and I tried to keep Wildie from being turned. Soon, the boat went over the mooring ball. I put the engine in neutral so the pendant wouldn’t get wrapped on our prop. Thud. The mooring ball banged against our hull. Then we stopped dead. It was still blowing 20 knots, and we were in line with all the other boats on moorings…backwards.

I couldn’t even see the ball under us. I could only reach the end of the pendant with the boat hook, but I couldn’t pull it loose.

Some neighbors dinghied over. They were Spaniards with limited English. I gestured and managed to say “pelota” and he said he saw it on the starboard side. We tried to pull it loose, but no go. I was prepared to dive down but who would man the helm?

I called the marina, and they referred me to TowboatUS. Time to play the unlimited towing card. In the meantime, I texted Serena.

The TowboatUS guy came and tied up to our boat and rotated Wildie around the mooring to try and free us. Still stuck. He tried the other direction. Still stuck.

I donned a wetsuit and a snorkel mask. After a brief gameplan and safety discussion I jumped in.

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A little pickle…

Under water I saw the shackle that attaches the chain to the mooring ball was stuck in the joint between the skeg and hull. The buoyancy of the mooring ball and the wind held that shackle jammed in place. I relayed this to the TowboatUS driver. He then pushed the boat into the wind to relieve the tension while I pulled down on the shackle. We were free within 10 seconds.

A bruised ego, a few cuts on my hands (from grabbing the chain and shackle underwater), and 2 hours after my estimated arrival time, I was finally settled.

Fast forward to Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera. We were having dinner with a new friend, George. We exchanged horror stories and I shared my Titusville mooring ball drama. He had a good chuckle. George said he was warning some guys about trying to pick up a mooring ball from the side of the boat next to the cockpit. There’s the prop and all the moving parts to get tangled up in the lines. “I told them, ‘Don’t be that guy in Titusville!’”

Yep. I’m that guy.

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{this moment} cast away

Cast away
A Friday ritual. A single photo capturing a moment from the week I want to pause, savor and remember –via Soulemama.

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A boat kid’s travel journal

V has been keeping a “journal” since she was three. I originally got the idea from a post in  12 Questions for 12 Families from Women and Cruising. We started out with dictated journal entries and over time, it has evolved into a fun collaboration with V.

V decided that she wanted to share her travel journal so that her grandparents can see it. Here is the video:

V Journal from Serena on Vimeo.

Some notes on our collaboration:

  • V can’t write yet, so she dictates to me. I found that some days she’s more likely to do it if I record her talking on my iPhone, then transcribe her monologue into her journal. She also likes to listen to herself talk.
  • Over time, the journal has evolved. She started cutting and pasting in pictures from magazines and travel brochures. She also adds stickers, bumper stickers, maps and anything else she collects along the way.
  • She is just growing her wings as an artist, so sometimes she asks for *commissioned* drawings from me.
  • If we are at a museum or park, I often bring her journal and suggest that she get it stamped. It’s up to her to make the decision, and usually she likes to get lots of stamps.

V loves to have me read back her journal entries. Her journal is much more rich and interesting because of our collaboration–better than my vision of a diary.

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New friends

In addition to seeing dolphins and manatees on this trip, we’ve been hanging out with a few new friends lately.

Iguanas
V had a few staredowns with the Exumas iguanas off Little Allen’s Cay. These iguanas are critically endangered, and yet they are still curious about humans (probably because tourists feed them, even though they are not supposed to).

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The not-so-critically-endangered swimming pigs. For about a year, we have been promising V a visit to the swimming pigs in Staniel Cay.

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Snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto in Staniel Cay. V, clutching a slice of bread in her hand, was swarmed by a school of fish. She found it exhilerating!

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The cave inside Thunderball is so beautiful.

sv Robin
A buddy boat! We met sv Robin at Highborne Cay Marina, where we were both hiding from a blow. We traveled for a few days together down to Staniel Cay. O was very excited to have a playmate of his own and V was happy to have another little toddler to coddle. We hope to meet up with them again in Georgetown.

Exumas

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